Seaworthy - July 2010

pedestal. Remove the cord and rinse off the end thoroughly with fresh water and let it dry, which could take several days. Before using, spray with an electrical contact cleaner to displace any remaining water.

A Better Mousetrap?

• Don’t force connectors. If they won’t fit together, there’s a reason. There are several different connectors and each is used for a different capacity. A 30-amp cord would be a fire hazard if somehow plugged into a 50-amp connection. They’re not interchangeable and should never be modified.

This cord was pinched against a piling and suffered internal damage. In one claim (#0102569), a pinched cord was put back into use. Severed wires caused the cord to overheat, almost starting a fire.

see if they offer repair kits. However, before replacing an overheated connection, you need to know what caused the problem. Often, the boat’s inlet is damaged and just replacing the shore power cord connection will only damage the new one.

• If you use an adapter, you’re introducing another set of connections that can arc or corrode. Adapters often are not equipped with sealed connections and are typically designed for short-term use and should only be used in dry locations.

If the plug ends look OK, check along the cord itself, looking for any cuts in the insulation and feeling for crushed areas. Thin spots likely indicate the cord was stretched. Finally, any previous repairs to the cord are reason enough to require replacement.

• Never cut or splice a cord. A shore power cord has extra-thick insulation that can’t do its job if it’s cut. On the other hand, most shore power cord manufacturers make kits to replace the ends. If you’re comfortable with basic electric projects, it’s a straightforward job.

• Don’t leave the cord plugged in on the dock when your boat is away. If you forget to turn the power off and the cord falls into the water, it could present a shock hazard to swimmers.

A company called SmartPlug has developed what it thinks is the solution to most of the problems associated with shore power cords. According to the manufacturer, one of the biggest differences in their shore power system is that the connector blades, which are 316 stainless steel rather than the typical nickel-plated brass, are not L-shaped but straight, which the company says offers 20 times the contact area of the old style. The locking mechanism is not twist-lock, but has two spring-loaded latches on the outside of the connector; inserting the plug (easier to do in the dark, the company says, since there is no fumbling to find the proper orientation) also locks it and seals the connection. In case of a plug overheat, it’s equipped with a thermal cutoff that cuts power at around 200º F. The company sells a kit that enables boat owners to retrofit their shore power cords on the boat inlet side. Also available is a retrofit for dock pedestal systems, which highlights a problem with the system—if both ends of a shore power cord have a SmartPlug, it can’t be used in other marinas. This is why, according to the manufacturer, the system can’t be UL marine listed. More information can be found at www.smartplug.com

While the boat end of the cord tends to get inspected more frequently, since it is unplugged whenever the boat is used, don’t forget to periodically check the pedestal connection. Even slight damage is enough to warrant immediate replacement.

A Few Tips

• In the event that your shore power connection falls into salt water, immediately turn off the power at the

You wouldn’t want this cord plugged in next to your boat. While connectors can usually be replaced, if there is any damage to the cord itself (note the electrical tape), it can’t be repaired and must be replaced.